Timeless Taniwha
Further on from Hamilton is Cambridge, a charming country town. You’ll find some of New Zealand’s best fences in this neck of the woods because this is horse country, racehorse country! But there’s so much more to it. I think this is a playground for the taniwha.
In Maori mythology, Taniwha are supernatural creatures whose forms and characteristics vary according to different tribal traditions. Though supernatural, in the Maori world view they were seen as part of the natural environment. Among many, they are considered kaitiaki, or protectors of iwi (tribes) and hapu (sub-tribes). They are respected, and people who passed by their dens would say the appropriate karakia (prayer) and leave an offering, often a green twig.
Taniwha Symbolism
Taniwha were also a symbol for great chiefs. There is a proverb from this Waikato region that goes like this: “Waikato taniwha rau, he piko he taniwha. Waikato of a hundred taniwha, every bend a taniwha.” For some this refers to the many taniwha of the Waikato River, while for others it is about the many important chiefs of the area.
This figure of speech is used in laments for chiefs who have passed on, such as this one for Te Haupa, chief of the Ngati Paoa tribe: “Unuhia noatia te taniwha i te rua. Withdrawn now is the dragon from his lair.”
Unless you’re a local you’d never know how much of a playground for taniwha the Cambridge surrounds is but a short stroll away from the city centre is Riverside Park. You can take a Camjet ‘Mighty River’ ride that will take your breath away and an experienced driver will tell you all about the historical facts of the monuments you pass.
Cruis’in
For something a little cruisier you might consider a House Boat Escape or the Karapiro Cruiser a newly built modern 50-foot catamaran pontoon boat specifically designed for lake and river cruising. But if you prefer to paddle your own waka (canoe or in this case kayak) then The Boatshed Cafe is just for you. They tell some good yarns in that place and Ella and Hazel aren’t too bad four-legged hosts either!
As we leave the the picturesque township of Cambridge in our rear vision mirror and I wind my window down to smell the crisp afternoon air I’m reminded that to Maori, air is a taonga or treasure and that the Waikato region generally has good air quality.
Air is viewed as a taonga derived from Ranginui (the Sky Father). Maori legend tells that following the separation of Ranginui and Papatuanuku (the earth mother) their child Tawhirimatea fled with Ranginui to his new home in the sky. From there Tawhirimatea controls the wind and elements.
I can hear in my mind’s ear the plop as the paddle of some unseen waka wends its way along the mighty Waikato river, joining me in my journey toward Nama (Moewaka, my great grandmother). I can hear the tuki-waka or time-song still heard on the Waikato river in canoe races, the chant of the kai-tuki or kai-hautu, the captain of the waka, as he gives the rhythmic measure for the paddle-strokes and cheers on his toiling crew:
Kei runga riro l Nga manu mohio l Ko Mumuhau l Ko Takereto l Tiraua ka waiho l Nga ki-titiro l A tena, tena! l Hukere, hukere!
Above us fly l The birds of knowledge l Mumuhau and Takereto l Wise birds that bid us watch l The omens of the sky l That’s it, go along! l Quickly, quickly dip!
Ngiha te ahi l Ki Maunga-tautari l Hei a Rangi-ngatata l No na no l Te huruhuru l Kei ana tapa l Hukere, hukere!
Yonder blaze the fires l On Maunga-tautari’s height l The fires of Rangi-ngatata l See our feathers flying l The plumes of our canoe l Now quickly dip your blades
It’s time to continue on toward Nama, Moewaka Jane, my maternal great grandmother.
