Ātene (Athens)
By the time we reach Ātene we’ve travelled 36kms. We round a bend in the road and suddenly the paddock is filled with spectacular Naked Ladies Amaryllis Belladona lillies. Amaryllis is from the Greek meaning ‘to sparkle’, their amaranth pink loveliness startling my eyes with their pastoral wonder.
In the early 1900’s, visitors called the Whanganui River the ‘Rhine of New Zealand’. It’s the longest navigable river in New Zealand, along which you can find some of the most stunning bush scenery. I remember the first time I saw the name Ātene (Athens) on the signpost. I actually thought my eyes were deceiving me. It seemed odd to me, the name, in this bush clad setting.
Ātene Tracks
The Ātene Tracks are located in the Whanganui National Park. There are two entrances to the Ātene Skyline Track Both entrances to the track are less than 2 km apart. The central attraction of the walk is Puketapu hill. Hundreds of years ago it stood at the end of a long, narrow-necked peninsula. The river once flowed in an almost complete circle around it but after years of erosion the river broke through the neck, forcing a more direct route to the sea.
Spectacular views from vantage points along the track include the cut-off meander, the Whanganui River, Mt Ruapehu, Mt Taranaki/Egmont, the Tasman Sea, and the Whanganui River’s tributary valleys. Beginning at the up-river end, the track climbs steeply from the River Road to a height of 260m through fine lowland forest.
Following an old, gently graded roadline for approximately 3 km the track follows the ridgeline to a clearing which marks the track’s halfway point. A campsite with drinking water, a shelter and a toilet is available here.
The Taumata Trig
Shortly beyond this point is the Taumata Trig, the highest point of the track at 523m. The track then winds around the edge of sandstone bluffs to reach Taupiri Trig before descending steeply back to the River Road. The Ātene Viewpoint Walk travels through both native bush and farmland up an historic roadway (privately owned) that was built by the former Ministry of Works and Development 51 years ago during investigations for a Whanganui River hydro-electric power generation scheme.
The Viewpoint track ends on a black beech ridge with great views of Whanganui National Park and the cutoff river meander (the former bed of the Whanganui River before it cut a new course). A picnic table just 20 minutes in gives spectacular views of the Whanganui River.
It takes about an hour to get to the viewpoint, but less to come down. People wanting a longer walk can continue past the viewpoint. The Skyline tramping track goes on for about another three hours beyond the shelter, following the main ridge, ending up back on the Whanganui River Road just south of Ātene. Koriniti next, imagine that! Corinth in New Zealand.
